Here’s the part where I sound like the geography teacher that I’m not.
Budapest. The capital of Hungary. A city separated by the Danube river. A City of two halves. You have the hilly district of Buda on one bank of the Danube and the flatter district of Pest on the other bank.
We travelled in November. It was the last of our short breaks for 2018, and maybe our favourite so far…
My health condition
For those not reading this on my accessible travel blog, (wheeliebigadventures.com), here’s a quick refresh of my condition. It just gives some context to the post.
I have MS. I’m a manual wheelchair user who self-propels. But I’m just as happy to take a push where I can. Freewheel is my ‘cobblestone muncher’ of choice http://www.gofreewheel.com/ My travelling companion is my fantastic wife and carer, Lisa.
Getting to Budapest
Another Jet2 City Break from Manchester https://www.jet2holidays.com/city-breaks Again, their Special Assistance works perfectly for me. When you make your booking, as long as you tell them you require SA, Jet2 arrange the SA.
So for this journey, the SA was ambulift to the plane door; transfer out of my chair to the aisle wheelchair; my chair goes into the hold; I’m pushed to my seat; I transfer onto the seat; the seat belt clicks into place; everyone’s all smiles; and we’re off.
Two and a half hours later and we’re doing the reverse at Budapest Airport. This was seamless again. Based on my own experiences, Jet2 are good at arranging SA. I’ve attached below a link to Budapest Airport’s Special Needs page – it’s how they title it. However, it has a couple of useful special assistance videos attached to it https://www.bud.hu/en/passengers/flight_and_travel_information/special/special_needs
Getting from the Airport to Budapest Centre
There’s the usual range of options available, but after already using water taxi, (Venice) and dedicated airport train, (Rome), I fancied something different. It still has to be public transport though. What about the bus?
I was going to book a taxi. But then with a bit of time web-surfing, I found out about the low floor 100E airport bus. Apparently, the service went ‘live’ in July 2018 and runs from the airport to Deac Ferenc Square.
DFS is in the centre of Pest and was perfect for us. The 100E runs every 30 mins between 05:00 and 00:30. I’ve attached a link below with some route maps and timetable information https://www.bud.hu/en/passengers/transport/public_transportation/budapest_public_transportation
Journey time is about 20-25 minutes. The cost is 900HUF, (Hungarian Forint), for a one way ticket for one person. I’m not 100% sure of the charging policy. We paid 1,800HUF from the authorised ticket booth in the airport concourse for 2 of us. But only 900HUF on the way back from a ticket bought from the driver. He was working on the basis that I travelled free in my wheelchair but my carer paid full.
Whatever the policy, as the exchange rate in November 2018 was 300HUF/£1GBP, it was never going to ‘break the bank’.
Does the ‘E’ in 100E stand for Easy?
The ticket booth was just outside the main arrivals hall, and the 100E bus stop was just outside the hall, (about 100m in total).
Boarding as a wheelchair user was a doddle. You make yourself known to the driver before you board the bus. He then opens the side doors, drops the access ramp onto the pavement and wheels you into the designated wheelchair space. You can then strap yourself in with the seat belt and there are, (at least), 2 seats for your carer. Perfect.
There are only 3 stops and DFS is 1 of them. This is where the journey terminates. Our hotel was literally 500m from DFS, (I don’t know what I did before Google Earth). We got off the bus. Took a right turn up Andrássy Street. A couple of 100m, (if that), and we were at the Hotel. The transfer from DFS to the Hotel was perfect for us. Me in the chair and Lisa pulling a wheeled small suitcase. Bish, bash, bosh.
The Hotel
So, what makes me think they’re great? Moments is a boutique hotel that just worked for a wheelchair user. To assist accessibility, it has level entry off Andrássy Street with access via automatic doors, (always a plus). It has spacious lifts. There’s an accessible toilet straight off the GF reception, and the staff are fantastic.
As with any capital city, there are loads of hotels, catering for the size of every purse or wallet. But I’m going to give Hotel Moments a name check. For us they were absolutely amazing. I’ve attached a link to their website http://hotelmomentsbudapest.hu/
Room 406 and the case of the missing shower chair
The receptionist made a big ‘thing’ of how she thought we’d love the room. However, I was just putting her exuberance down to my ignorance of the Hungarian language.
She told me they had received my emails and that we’d been given an upgrade. Her parting shot was that she was “sure we’d like it”.
If you are in a wheelchair, request room 406
It was lovely. It’s in a little ‘wing’ of 2 or 3 rooms, just off the main central galleried area. First impressions? The hotel and the room smell gorgeous. The decor is lovely. The floor is wooden parquet, so very ‘rollable’. The bathroom is lovely. However, there was no shower seat. Bugger.
I thought it must be somewhere. But it was nowhere to be seen. It could be in the cupboard, (hint). But the door’s locked. So, I left Lisa unpacking and rolled down to reception to see if they had a shower chair.
Is Hindsight really 20:20 vision?
With hindsight, I now understand why the previously exuberant receptionist looked at me blankly when I asked if there was a shower seat. She telephoned housekeeping, and (politely) told me to go back to the room and wait for housekeeping.
I’d not been back in 406 for more than two minutes when housekeeping arrived. Well the housekeeper strode straight over to the cupboard door, all the while looking at me quizzically. I don’t know the Hungarian for DH. But I’m sure you know what I thought she was thinking.
When she realised the door was locked, (thank God it was locked) she apologetically took out an enormous bundle of keys from her pocket, unlocked the door, flicked on the lights and there was…
…a second bathroom! All mine! It was an accessible wet room, with a roll-in shower, roll under wash hand basis, and with a shower seat! The photos are below, (I’ve added one of the bedroom for good measure). Now I know why the receptionist thought I was bonkers.
Just time for a bite to eat, a quick roll near the hotel, (St Stephen’s Basillica was just at the bottom of Andrássy Street and Chain Bridge just a little beyond that), and that was enough for the first night.
Day 2 – Pest
I chose stopping on the Pest side because it was supposed to be level. It was. From a wheelchair user’s perspective, the pavements are pretty much perfect for rolling. There are lots of dropped curbs. But I was also using a Freewheel which is perfect for a manual wheelchair user in a City – it lifts those ‘pesky’ little castors off the floor.
The Pest side is compact and we walked, (well, I rolled; Lisa walked), everywhere. From Heroes Square at the top of Andrássy Street, (apparently Budapest’s Champs Elysees). Down through Vaci Utca, (with it’s very own C&A – one for the British). Along the Pest banks of the Danube – stopping to pay our respects at The Shoes on the Danube Bank. Finishing off with a tour of my favourite building from all my travels – the Hungarian Parliament Building.
Day 3 – Buda
We walked over Chain Bridge and this is a must do. But then the hills started.
Due to time, we focused on the Castle District. However, because of my liking of buildings we mooched about outside, looking at the gorgeous architecture and taking in the fantastic views down over Pest.
Accessible toilets 1
But my main issue was finding an accessible toilet. I now know this is a common problem, (for me). But the issue was compounded, because most bars and restaurants, (I’d say ALL, but I might be wrong) have a humongous step that you need to get over first.
I saw the Police station, and thought “Perfect. Level entry”. I was half right, as it was level entry through the main doors. But followed immediately by 4 or 5 steps up to the public areas. Bugger!
The solution, (or at least my, ‘brassneck’ solution) was to use the accessible toilet in the Hilton Hotel, just off the main ground floor bar. Despite the door being kept locked, the Concierge is the Gatekeeper. Problem solved.
Buda’s Sights
We took the funicular up to the Castle District. This is fun. It’s cramped. But they accommodate wheelchair users in the carriage and they positively welcomed me. We watched the changing of the guard outside the Castle. I rolled around the medieval streets, (remember that toilet search). I marvelled at Matthias Church, and we loved the views from Fisherman’s Bastion.
Our Buda tour was whistle stop. So I’ve attached a weblink with more information, and I hope you find it useful https://www.budapestbylocals.com/budapest-castle-district.html
Unmissable, (IMO) Special Mentions
Ruin Bars
For me, the Jewish Quarter was the best part of our trip. It’s quirky and it’s kooky. There’s loads of brightly painted street art. And there are the Ruin Bars. These are the quirkiest and kookiest of all.
For decades after the war, sections of the Jewish Quarter lay in disrepair, awaiting demolition. Then came Szimpla Kert https://szimpla.hu/
Accessible toilets 2
I am realising this is becoming my mantra! According to the bar staff, there are no accessible toilets in Szimpla. I took this to mean “there are none in the Ruin Bars”. However, this was no failing of translation, as I was in my wheelchair when I asked.
However, I was given ‘permission’ to use the Ladies – through the double doors in photo 5 above. It didn’t bother me. And I can transfer. But it won’t suit everyone.
Lisa was my ‘Gatekeeper’ – standing outside the cubicle and adding to the graffiti wall. You can take the girl out of Westhoughton. But you can’t take Westhoughton out of the girl.
Danube Cruise after dark
This was Lisa’s choice. But I must admit that it was ace. The Danube is a long way below street level, (for good reasons). The water level does rise and fall, but from what I can see on the Net, movement over 0.5 metres is excessive.
This is not me being a geography teacher (again). I’m pointing out the practicalities of getting on and off the boat when you’re in a wheelchair. The photos below show the challenge. I know that I’m a wimp. But the incline was steep. Too steep to roll down unaided. And WAY too steep to push up on my own.
I didn’t need to ask for any help. The staff were there to help before the cruise. When we got off the boat after the cruise there were loads of offers to help push me up the gang plank. Thank heavens for the free bar!
Accessible toilets 3 & the ‘big’ boat
The cruise is sold as being wheelchair accessible. You also get the option to make this clear when you book. Sounds easy? Yet our cruise booking was cancelled by the operator the day after I booked it, because the boat that day was inaccessible to wheelchair users. They rebooked our trip for the following evening on an accessible boat. I don’t know what happened the first time. But it was sorted out.
After the gang plank access, we eventually boarded our accessible boat by literally walking through a small boat, moored next to our big boat. If you’re able bodied this is easy enough, but it’s not as easy in a wheelchair, given there’s a 0.5m step to get over! Enter 4 bloody massive sailors. They each got a corner of the wheelchair and lifted me and the chair over the step and through the small boat. This was an experience that added to our unique night, but it wouldn’t suit everyone.
The big boat had a lift to move between levels. It had a full, very posh restaurant, and a (less posh) bar area with a gypsy jazz & folk band. It also had my favourite – the disabled toilet that doubles as a cleaners store! The crew were great at emptying the cleaning equipment, (and tables and chairs and…), for me, but…
Nevertheless, the views of the Danube at night are amazing. Well worth the challenges of getting on, (and off), the boat. I’ve posted below some photos from the cruise, (not of the toilets, so don’t worry).
Spíler
This place became a favourite eating and watering hole while we were in Budapest, so I’ve attached a link to their website below. But if the food was good, Spíler gets my vote because the staff were amazing. No toilet story here. Sorry https://spilerbp.hu/main-page.html
Borze Restaurant
We completely stumbled on this place after leaving the Hungarian Parliament building. It serves fantastic Hungarian food and has staff that went the extra mile. That’s why Borze gets my mention. This is despite access being up a step and it having no on-site accessible toilet. And they’ve not bribed me. Here’s a link http://borzeetterem.hu/en/
We wanted to have some great Hungarian food, and I wanted something that was so local we’d struggle to get it at home. Borze passed the test, and boy was it delicious. Cottage Cheese Dumpling! Has the World gone mad?
The toilet story, (aka Accessible toilets 4) at Borze
We chatted with the manager throughout the meal. What a great guy. I needed an accessible toilet. Turns out there wasn’t one, and the toilets were in the basement, accessed by a spiral staircase. Therefore, no chance of that for a portly bloke in a wheelchair.
After a lot of head scratching, the manager says he has a solution, but did I mind being taken outside the restaurant? It turns out they had an office in the adjacent building.
He pushed me in the chair, down the step, into the next door building, in the lift to their 3rd floor ‘office’. However, when I got inside the ‘office’, I think it was more accurate to say that it was actually the manager’s own apartment and his own bathroom. All very strange but ‘any port in a storm’ etc.
Final thoughts on Budapest
What a fantastic City. Yes there are challenges for wheelchair access. But with a little ‘flexibility’, we managed to have a great time. I am fortunate to still have a little flexibility. If you have no, or little adaptability, I am sure everything can be sorted out with more mainstream restaurant choices.
But after experiencing the people, I am sure that if they could make a situation work, in a positive manner, they would. Budapest was a blast. We’ll definitely go back.
Cottage Cheese Dumpling anyone?
